Los Estoraques and La Playa de Belen
La Playa de Belen is not on most tourists' Colombian bucket list, it's easy to understand why. Tucked away from anything famous, Playa de Belen in the department of North Santander is about 7 hours away from Valledupar and Bucaramanga. Two large towns in Colombia but they are both not on any top things to do in Colombia guides. The capital of North Santander is Cucuta which is close to the Venezuelan border but still at least 5hours away by bus. So I get why there's not much information about this place.
The one other reason why this area does not receive many visitors is because it has for a long time been unstable due to the conflicts. The violence that this area has experienced is rooted in complex socio-political issues, including drug trafficking, guerrilla activities (FARC), paramilitary groups, and regional conflicts. Some remote areas continue to be affected by illegal armed groups involved in drug trafficking and other criminal activities. However, the overall security situation has improved, allowing for increased tourism in the region.
For us overlanding, it was a break in the long journey from Cabo de la Vela to Bucaramanga. What brought us here though wasn't the town per say but the wonderful small park called Los Estoraques. I remember seeing these park and the rock formations it had and knew it was on my must do in Colombia.
The drive to La Playa Belen was via a beautiful windy mountain road. We got there on a Thursday afternoon to a very quiet but charming town. The name La Playa is a quite the misnomer given that there is no body of water close by that would mean a beach.
We found our campsite quite easily and got settled before going out to explore in the town. The first thing we learnt was that this was a Colombian heritage town, a "Pueblo Patrimonio". These are a set of towns that have been recognized and protected for the maintenance of true Colombian culture through their history, cultures and architecture.
Right away we were in awe of how beautiful the little town was. With only a few streets, it is very easy to wander through the whole town in a few hours. The rows of short buildings are painted white and all the doors are a brown colour with a brown windows. The thing that is also distinct in the 2 planters with flowers posted outside every door.
It was the first of the beautiful small Colombian towns that we had encountered and it was a real treat. While wandering around the streets, we got the curious stares from the residents there. A few people came over and introduced themselves, asked where we were from and gave us a heart felt welcome to the town.
It was such a treat for us because we immediately felt at home. In fact, one gentleman showed us his home and told us we could come over if we needed anything. It was the kind of hospitality that goes a long way as we are travelling.
The main square is small but full of life as the towns people gather there in the afternoon to observe the on goings of the town. It was here we had the opportunity to meet more people and appreciate the true Colombian hospitality. On the weekends, the plaza really came to life with a group of youth putting on a show for the town. It was wonderful to be there and observe the community come together to support its youth.
Los Estoraques Unique Natural Area:
We opted to hike the park in the morning assuming the afternoon would be hot and full of hikers.
The entrance fee came to COP 8000 (CAD $ 2.50 and USD $2) per adult and nothing for the children. There is a big surprise at the end of the hike ( keep reading to see what the surprise is). This park might be one of the smaller ones in Colombia but has a lot to offer. It was declared a Unique natural area in the 90s and with this ensuring its protection.
The park showcases intricate limestone formations, shaped by erosion and weathering over millions of years. Towering spires, majestic arches, and whimsical shapes emerge from the ground, resembling a surreal sculpture garden.
Hiking around was easy even for the kids since the main trail is well-marked and offers a variety of routes suitable for different skill levels. A typical hike through the park can take around an hour but with the children, it took us over 2 hours to do the loop.
It is such a great park for kids and adults alike as we spent so much time in awe of all the formations. There were also little streams passing through the park with little fish. The kids spent sometime catching the little fish and releasing back into the water. Besides that we were able to enjoy watching dragonflies and butterflies like the blue morpho.
The kids were really excited to get to the end because an amazing surprise awaited us. There is a cave at the end of the loop and this was used as an inspiration to create Bruno's room in the movie Encanto. We spent a fantastic time here playing hide and seek and crawling through the tight spaces.
It was difficult to get the kids to leave but the promise of pizza and ice cream were enough to get them going.
How to get to Los Estoraques.
The closest large city is Cucuta which is at the border with Venezuela. One option would be to take a bus from Bogota to Cúcuta, the capital city of the North Santander department. Several bus companies operate on this route, and the journey typically takes around 8-10 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions.
Upon arriving in Cúcuta, you can hire a taxi or use shared transportation services, such as minivans or colectivos, to reach Los Estoraques. These services are usually available at the bus terminal or can be arranged through your accommodation in Cúcuta. Negotiate the fare or confirm the price beforehand.
Alternatively, you can also consider taking a bus from Cúcuta to the town of La Playa de Belen, located near Los Estoraques. From the town square, the park is an easy walking distance
Where to stay:
We camped at the Restaurante El Portal which also had rooms for rent. It was a very tranquil hotel with a restaurant which was very convenient for us. They offer typical Colombian dishes including fish like Mojarra with rice and patacones or the typical pork or chicken.
Where to eat.
La Playa de Belen is a small village and does not cater much to tourists. We chose to eat pizza at the El Merendero de Yader which was right at the main square. The pizza was nothing special but there are not too many options in town.
The one shop we managed to frequent a lot was the ice cream store Dulce Tentacion.
On the weekend, we were able to enjoy some street food being sold in the main square and we had some empanadas and tamales both of which were delicious.
Is La Playa de Belen safe?
There is military presence in the town which makes it feel safer.
As pointed out previously, the department of North Santander has had conflict over a long period of time. North Santander's proximity to the border with Venezuela and its strategic location along drug trafficking routes has made it a hotbed for the drug trade. This is one of the regions in Colombia where coca plants are grown and the region has also been used for the processing and transportation on cocaine. Different criminal groups have had conflict as they all fight for control or the territory and the drug routes. The violence in North Santander led to the displacement of thousands of people, causing a humanitarian crisis. Many civilians were forced to leave their homes, seeking safety in other areas of Colombia. However, the Colombian government has been working to demobilize the paramilitary groups, and work for peace agreements with the guerilla groups. While the work is still on going, there has been an improvement in the safety of the residents here.
We felt safe the whole time we were at the village but we exercised precaution at every level. We did not walk around at night, we stayed in a safe campground that had a fence and gate that was closed at night.