Gentrified in Ajijic
Full disclosure: As much as I appreciated the natural beauty and pleasant climate of Ajijic, I find myself hesitant to wholeheartedly recommend it as a travel destination. Read the rest of the blog as I delve into the reason why I felt this way after visiting Ajijic.
After a wonderful week exploring Guadalaja and the neighbouring town of Tlaquepaque, we headed south to the little village called Ajijic, which is pronounced A-hee-heek. Located an easy 1.5 hrs from Guadalajara, this was a location that was recommended both by google and locals that we had met in Guadalajara.
Where is Ajijic
Ajijic, a charming town nestled on the northern shore of Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest freshwater lake, boasts a rich history and vibrant cultural background. Established in 1531 by Spanish colonists, Ajijic has a deep-rooted heritage that blends indigenous traditions with colonial influences.
Over the centuries, it has evolved into a cultural hub, attracting artists, writers, and expatriates from around the world. The town's picturesque setting, surrounded by the Sierra de San Juan Cosalá mountains, offers a stunning natural backdrop that enhances its appeal. Its geographic location provides a temperate climate year-round, making it an ideal destination for those seeking both relaxation and inspiration.
The town’s significance lies not only in its natural beauty but also in its role as a melting pot of cultures, albeit where traditional Mexican culture seems to be diluted and affected by the modern expatriate influences.
We arrived in Ajijic, on a Sunday afternoon and I was initially very shocked by what we saw. This small lakeside town, nestled along the northern shore of Lake Chapala, seemed more like a North American enclave than a Mexican village. The streets were lined with boutique shops, trendy cafes, and art galleries, with most catering to the tastes and preferences of the many American and Canadian residents who now call Ajijic home.
Moreover, English seemed to be the dominant language overheard in conversations on the street, and cafes. In fact, the menus were predominantly in English, a stark difference from the Mexico we had encountered over the past few weeks.
Ajijic's charm and ideal climate had clearly attracted a significant expatriate community, but the influx of foreigners brought a noticeable shift. Traditional Mexican culture seemed to be overshadowed by the conveniences and comforts familiar to the North American lifestyle. Authentic local markets and traditional eateries were hard to find, replaced by international cuisine and imported goods.
We walked around the little town as soon as we got there in an attempt to find a restaurant that seemed authentic and local but with hungry kids beginning to get whiny, we had to settle for a cafe.
While we had our fill of sandwiches, we started chatting with an American guy that was sitting at the next table. He let us know that he and his wife had just moved to Ajijic from Philadelphia. They loved living in the little town and he told us the main reason for them moving there was because this area was considered to have one of the best weather in the world. This was one of the major reasons why it had so many American and Canadian snowbirds.
With our bellies full and our children happy, we ventured out to discover what the town had to offer.
Things to do in Ajijic
Enjoy the murals
Immediately, we are in awe of one of the most striking features of Ajijic. Its vibrant murals, which adorn the walls of buildings throughout the town. These colorful, intricate artworks bring a sense of life and creativity to the streets, reflecting both the town’s history and the personal stories of its inhabitants.
Each mural tells a unique tale, from depictions of local legends and folklore to scenes of everyday life, all rendered in vivid hues and bold designs. Walking through the town feels like wandering through an open-air gallery, with each corner revealing a new piece of art to admire.
The artists behind these murals are as diverse as their creations. Many are by local talents who have lived in Ajijic for years, deeply connected to its cultural and social fabric. These artists use their work to celebrate Mexican traditions and heritage, often incorporating elements of indigenous art and symbolism. Their murals are a testament to their roots, showcasing the rich tapestry of Mexican culture through their skilled craftsmanship and artistic vision. These are an important part of holding on to the culture that is otherwise dwindling in this area.
In addition to local artists, Ajijic has also attracted creatives from around the world, drawn by the town's burgeoning art scene and supportive community. These international artists bring their own styles and perspectives, contributing to a dynamic and eclectic mix of artistic expressions.
The collaborative spirit among these artists fosters a sense of community and shared purpose, with many murals being the result of joint efforts.
What we came to learn from speaking to different people around the plaza is that the murals in Ajijic are not just decorative but they also serve as a form of social commentary and cultural preservation. They address themes such as migration, identity, and the environment, prompting viewers to reflect on these important issues.
The artists use their murals to spark conversations and inspire change, making their work not only visually stunning but also deeply meaningful.
In essence, the murals of Ajijic are a vibrant testament to the town’s artistic soul. They encapsulate the creativity and resilience of its artists, both local and international, and offer a colorful glimpse into the rich cultural heritage that needs to be preserved for generations to come.
2: Stroll the mallecón
Being a Sunday, we had to go strolling along the Malecón in Ajijic . It felt like a quintessential experience that captured the essence of this charming lakeside town. Walking along this picturesque boardwalk, we were greeted by stunning views of Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest freshwater lake, shimmering under the sun.
The path is beautifully landscaped, with vibrant flowers, swaying palm trees, and meticulously maintained gardens that provide a lush, tropical ambiance. Along the way, we encountered a variety of sculptures and art installations, reflecting Ajijic’s rich artistic culture. Local artists and vendors had set up their wares excitedley awaiting the throngs of visitors that came down for the day from Guadalajara.
The Malecón is a popular spot for both locals and tourists, making it a great place to people-watch and engage with the friendly residents.
Street vendors sell everything from handmade crafts to delicious snacks like roasted corn and fresh fruit, offering a taste of local flavors. . The Malecón was especially enchanting during sunset when the sky is painted with hues of orange, pink, and purple, casting a magical glow over the lake. At this time, the boardwalk came alive with families, couples, and solo travelers all enjoying the serene beauty of the twilight hour.
A playground was a wonderful place for the kids to enjoy sometime to do what kids do best-play instead of walking around enjoying the crafts.
3: Hiking
Ajijic is fantasticaly set on the northern shore of Lake Chapala, surrounded by a stunning natural landscape that makes it a haven for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. The town is situated at an elevation of about 5,000 feet, offering a temperate climate year-round, which enhances its appeal as a picturesque retreat. It has been refered to as the area with the best year round weather in the whole world. I don’t know how true that could be however it is definitely a driving factor when it comes to migration of Canadians and Americans to the town.
The backdrop to Ajijic is dominated by the Sierra de San Juan Cosalá mountains, which rise majestically behind the town, creating a dramatic contrast with the expansive lake Chapala. These mountains are covered with lush vegetation, including a mix of tropical and temperate flora, making them a vibrant green during the rainy season and offering a variety of hues throughout the year.
The hiking trails around Ajijic provide access to this diverse and breathtaking natural beauty. One of the most popular trails is the hike to the Tepalo Waterfalls. This trail starts from the edge of town and winds its way through dense forests. It is a moderately challenging trail with the reward of cascading waterfalls during the wet season. The sound of the water and the cool, shady spots along the way make it a refreshing hike.
Another notable trail is the hike to the summit of El Tepalo, which offers panoramic views of Lake Chapala and the surrounding valley. This trail is steeper and more demanding but the summit provides a spectacular vantage point where you can see the vast expanse of the lake, the town below, and the distant horizon. On clear days, the views are simply breathtaking, making the effort well worth it.
For a more leisurely hike, the trails around La Reserva Natural de Sierra de San Juan Cosalá offer gentler paths through scenic landscapes. This nature reserve is home to a variety of bird species, making it a great spot for birdwatching. The trails here meander through diverse ecosystems, from dense woodlands to open fields, providing a peaceful and immersive nature experience.
In addition to these, there are numerous smaller trails and paths that crisscross the hills and valleys around Ajijic. These trails are less traveled and offer a sense of solitude and tranquility.
Overall, Ajijic's setting, with its combination of the serene Lake Chapala and the rugged beauty of the surrounding mountains, offered us a rich tapestry of natural wonders.
Where to eat in Ajijic
We felt that most of the restaurants in Ajijic seemed tailored primarily to the expatriate residents, many of whom were not Mexican. The menus often featured international cuisine and familiar comfort foods that catered to American and Canadian tastes.
While these dining options were certainly appealing, we found it challenging to find a restaurant that offered a truly authentic and local culinary experience. We had hoped to savor traditional Mexican dishes, bursting with the rich flavors and spices that define the region’s cuisine. Instead, we encountered establishments that, while charming and high-quality, lacked the genuine ambiance and traditional recipes we were seeking.
It became apparent that the local culinary scene had been significantly influenced by the influx of foreign residents, making it difficult to find eateries that reflected the authentic Mexican culture and flavors.
1.Membrillo
Despite this, we were able to have fantastic food at the restaurant, Membrillo. It’s decor is absolutely beautiful and the food was very tasty.
2. Chile Verde
In the morning, we were able to enjoy some Mexican flare in a restaurant that is right on the main plaza. We were so happy to have found a restaurant that was actually authentic and did not water down their flavours to cater to the expatriate crowd. As well the pricing on the food items reflected real Mexican food. This restaurant is an absolute must.
How to get to Ajijic
Getting to Ajijic is relatively straightforward, whether arriving domestically or internationally. For travelers flying into Mexico, the nearest major airport is Guadalajara International Airport (GDL), approximately a one-hour drive from Ajijic.
From Guadalajara, you can reach Ajijic by rental car, taxi, or private shuttle service, all readily available at the airport.
If you prefer public transportation, frequent buses run between Guadalajara and Chapala, with Ajijic just a short taxi or bus ride away. For those already in Mexico, Ajijic is accessible by road, making it a convenient destination for road trips from nearby cities like Guadalajara or Mexico City.
Once there, navigating Ajijic and its surroundings is easy, whether by walking, renting a bike, or using local taxis.
We drove from Guadalajara along the MX 44 and then 23. It took us about 1.5hrs on a well paved road.
Ajijic accomodations
Our camp spot was on a hill out of town overlooking the lake Chapala.
During our visit, we parked our campervan on a tranquil hillside overlooking the town, where we could wake up to stunning sunrises and enjoy peaceful evenings under the stars. It was a quite spot far away from town and in nature but we had the luxury of watching the town from afar.
In Ajijic, accommodations cater to a diverse range of preferences, from luxurious lakeside resorts to cozy bed and breakfasts and charming vacation rentals. The little town also offers opportunities for unique stays, such as wild camping spots with breathtaking views like we found on I Overlander.
As far as traditional lodging goes, there are numerous options that can be pre-booked or found upon arrival. Lakeside villas offer serene views of Lake Chapala, while boutique hotels in the heart of town provide easy access to Ajijic's vibrant artsy scene.
Best time to visit Ajijic
We heard from different people who claimed that Ajijic has the “ best weather in the world”. This must be because of its year round comfortable temperatures. What I would think is a better measure for when to visit would be the busy vs quiet times.
In the months of November- April the town hosts various cultural events and festivals during this time, providing opportunities to immerse yourself in local traditions and celebrations. While the dry season is peak tourist season, it ensures a vibrant atmosphere and plentiful activities. If you prefer fewer crowds and don't mind the occasional afternoon shower, visiting during the shoulder seasons of late spring or early fall can also be rewarding, offering quieter surroundings and potentially lower accommodation rates.
We were there in July but got lucky as we did not have any rain unlike our experience with the torrential downpour in Tlaquepaque.
Is Ajijic safe?
Ajijic felt very safe while we were there. In fact it is generally considered a safe destination for travelers. The town's small size and close-knit community contribute to a friendly and welcoming atmosphere. Violent crime is rare, and most visitors can explore Ajijic and its surroundings without major safety concerns.
However, like any travel destination, it's advisable to exercise common sense and take standard precautions. This includes safeguarding personal belongings, avoiding isolated areas at night, and staying aware of your surroundings. The local residents are known for their hospitality and are usually willing to offer assistance or advice to visitors, further enhancing the sense of safety in Ajijic.
Overall, with its tranquil lakeside setting and relaxed pace of life, Ajijic provides a peaceful retreat where visitors can enjoy their stay with a sense of security.
Do I recommend Ajijic?
We didn't spend too much time in this small town but it got me thinking about gentrification. Our brief visit to this small town sparked contemplation on gentrification and got me reflecting on what would be the experience of being a local whose community gradually transforms due to an influx of foreign retirees. The demographic shift slowly and inadvertently introduces changes that subtly reshape the town's fabric, influencing its culture over time.
The overwhelming presence of American and Canadian expatriates has transformed the town into a gentrified enclave. With this, it felt as though the authentic Mexican culture struggles to survive. The charm of local traditions and the vibrant, indigenous lifestyle that one might hope to experience in a Mexican town are overshadowed by the influx of foreign influences.
The effects of gentrification were evident everywhere. Property prices have soared, making it difficult for local families to afford housing. Many locals had been pushed out to the outskirts or have moved away entirely, seeking more affordable living conditions.
The cultural landscape was changing, with long-standing traditions and customs gradually being eroded by the demands and expectations of the expatriate community. While the economic boost brought by foreign residents was undeniable, it came at the cost of cultural dilution and a growing divide between the old and new inhabitants.
As we walked through Ajijic, it was hard to ignore the contrast. The picturesque beauty of the town remained, but the essence of its Mexican heritage seemed to be slipping away, replaced by a gentrified version that is catering more to its new residents while struggling to preserving its rich cultural roots.
That is the reason why I feel very hesitant about an outright recommendation of Ajijic. It ended up being more of a learning experience for me, one that I will hold close to me as we continue to travel.